For all its imperfections and controversies, Florida does have two things most states don’t: sunshine and warmth.

BreakAway is all about travel, getaways, free time, and ripping off the chains of responsibility for favorite things. Recently, those notions (and -40F windchills) inspired me to say YES when friends kindly invited me to their Floridian pads. Call it a mini-BreakAway, call it a snowbird test flight, call it research—since we’re all wondering about … what’s next? In life, in the golden years, and in sunscreen innovations.

I saw and absorbed a lot, but came home with these 5 BreakAway Takeaways…

• Florida is crowded

With nearly 24 million souls, Florida certainly has enjoyed growth—while many states suffer from residents running away. Credit the low taxes (which seem evident in the lack of some amenities taxes actually provide). Consider America’s aging populace—most of whom just want to be, like, warm. And give thanks to the reputation Florida has as a place for fun.

Today’s Florida still offers that, but this tourist experienced little that rivaled the epic experiences I enjoyed in the Keys and other locales back in the 80s and beyond. (Hey, what happens in Key Largo stays in Key Largo.)

• Florida sprawls

My hosts accepted my request to drive around, see things, take in sights and stimuli. I lost count of Costcos—to say nothing of the chain eateries that clog every corner—and learned that traffic can be, well, hell. Most cities in the USA can say that. But I have never, ever, seen such an endless maze of subdevelopments and condos. That swamp over there? It’ll be 500 units soon.

• Florida is losing authenticity

You know those kicky books by Carl Hiaasen? This reader is unsure of where he presently might mine his inspiration. Remember those happy-go-lucky songs by Jimmy Buffett? He was definitely hanging in places that got blown away by hurricanes or, more likely, development.

If you try, though, you can still waste away a breezy day in a waterside watering hole. And that was probably my favorite excursion!

• Florida has the coolest owls

Speaking of Mr. Hiaasen, remember Hoot? The children’s book? I barely do, but do recall my kids and their clans were gaga about it. Now I see why! The namesake burrowing owls that inspired that story were seemingly everywhere—and extraordinarily protected. Unlike northern owls, though, they were NOT shy. They would happily compete in any staredown and sometimes build their burrows in the middle of crazy-busy medians. What a hoot!

• Florida is warm and sunny

Despite my critique, it’s easy to like a place that’s 75 and sunny in February, when, frankly, almost all of America is cool and gray or worse. This time, I mostly traversed around the Fort Myers/Naples/Cape Coral area—where about 55% of Minnesotans ‘winter.’ So while my research trip may not have locked in my retirement destination, I’ll go back again.

Maybe the Keys will beckon so I can see the latest on what crowds and sprawl have taken over that paradise lost. Maybe the warm winds and flowers in bloom will call me to escape the frozen tundra that is MN 5.5 months a year. Or, if those don’t lure me back, the owls surely will.

And this time, WHOOOOO will win the staredown? Me!